P. Marlin October 2022
This post is part of Italy Itinerary 2022. Photos by the Marlin family.
Although Savoca was not a planned destination on our travel itinerary, we chose to visit the small town because of its importance in film history. Traveling to an interior Sicilian town or village is more difficult than it sounds, as nearly every route has as many twists and turns as a cooked spaghetti noodle. Nestled on a mountain between Taormina and Messina, Savoca is one of many medieval Sicilian towns and villages that have been inhabited for well over a thousand years. Not necessarily known for its historic sites, Savoca is more famously known for its role as a filming site for the 1972 blockbuster movie, The Godfather.
Lucky for us, we happened to be visiting Savoca on the 50th Anniversary of the The Godfather release. Bustling with tourists, we managed to squeeze our small car into one of the few parking spaces available along the Via Rina, located within walking distance of the renowned Bar Vitelli. With the exception of a thicket of vines covering the old patio area seating, Bar Vitelli had not changed much since a somber faced Al Pacino (playing Michael Corleone) told the bar owner, "My name is Michael Corleone. There are people who would pay a lot of money for that information..." With that scene vividly playing in our minds, we grabbed a patio table, ordered a granita, and took in the century old filming moment.
Driving up to Savoca.
The famous Bar Vitelli.
Bar Vitelli commemorates its place in film history by displaying an array of photos and memorabilia in its small interior rooms. Old wooden chairs used by Al Pacino (Michael Corleone) and his bodyguards gather dust in a corner, while images of Marlon Brando and The Godfather scenes grace the old stone walls. The wafting scent of Sicilian pastries and liquor confirmed the knowledge that filming in such a bona fide location significantly contributed to the movie's authentic feel. Credit for the bar's unique display goes to the owner, Maria D'Arrigo, a Savoca resident. A brief account of Maria's acquiring the bar as well as how The Godfather came to be filmed there, is also on display:
"One day, a businessman suggested that Maria should open a bar in Savoca at a time when there was no such establishment in the village. Having thought it over, she was convinced this was a good idea and set-to with enthusiasm, but faced the problem of where to locate the bar. A local judge presented her with a two-storey house and it is here, on the ground floor, that you will find the bar today. This was in 1964."
The entrance to Bar Vitelli.
An original movie scene on display in Bar Vitelli.
Yours truly enjoying Bar Vitelli's granitas and pastries.
"From that moment, she has been the owner of the Vitelli bar, one of the most famous and most visited in the world. Until 1971, it had no name, but was known simply as the bar. But 1971 this was a life-changing year. The young Italian-American film director Francis Ford Coppola was in Sicily to film some important scenes for II Padrino (The Godfather). Originally, the scenes where to be shot in Corleone, but the Mafia demanded a payout from Paramount, so a change of plan was decided upon. Saro Urzi, who played the part of Vitelli, father of Apollonia, suggested to Coppola that he should take a look Savoca, since it was a very similar village to Corleone. So it was, that one day, to the amazement of the inhabitants, Francis Ford Coppola arrived with bigwigs from Paramount to investigate the site. They were immediately impressed, both by the village itself and also the surrounding scenery, which lent itself to the mood of the film."
"Maria was there, standing behind the bar in the centre of the main square, little realising that her fate was soon to change dramatically. Paramount decided that the bar should be called Vitelli and from that day, it has borne that name on a sign seen in the film and brought fame to the village. The sign has never been removed."
Maybe this is Maria?
Bar Vitelli display.
Bar Vitelli display.
Bar Vitelli display.
Bar Vitelli.
Bar Vitelli display.
An old chair used in the movie and a newspaper article about Maria.
Bar Vitelli display.
An outside view of the bar. Paid parking is available down the street on the left.
Built in the 13th Century, the Church of San Nicolo is located a short distance up Via S. Michele. Using San Nicolo's facade as the backdrop for The Godfather, the wedding scene of Michael Corleone and Apollonia was filmed here. The interior of the church was not used in filming, however, we peeked inside anyway. Along with the ancient church, remnants of Savoca's past is visible in ruins and old stone walls located along the Via S. Michele walk.
The Bar Vitelli display of an older image of the Church of San Nicolò.
The Church of San Nicolò.
Bar Vitelli display of the wedding scene.
The Church of San Nicolò.
The Church of San Nicolò.
Interior of the Church of San Nicolò.
The walk up to the Church of San Nicolò.
The walk up to the Church of San Nicolò.
A view of the Gulf of Taormina.
The walk up to the Church of San Nicolò.
The walk up to the Church of San Nicolò.
The walk up to the Church of San Nicolò.
