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Italian Itinerary 2022: Castello Manfredonico

P. Marlin October 2022

This post is part of Italy Itinerary 2022. Photos by the Marlin family.

After spending the morning at the Valley of the Temples, we made our way through Sicily's interior to Castello Manfredonico, also known as Castle Mussomeli, a medieval fortress from the 14th century. A mosaic landscape of yellows, greens, and browns greeted us as we paused to admire the ancient hilltop town of Mussomeli located adjacent to the castle. Mussomeli's beginnings are unknown, however, historical records suggest that it originates from the time of the Romans around the third century. An important center of wheat production for markets of the Roman Empire, Mussomeli was referred to as “Mons Mellis” or “Mountain of Honey.” ¹

The hilltop town of Mussomeli.

A colorful landscape.

Perched on the top of a sizable rock, Castello Manfredonico came into view as we reached the opposite side of Mussomeli. Thought to have been built upon the ruins of a 13th century Arab settlment, Castello Manfredonico is one of over two hundred medieval castles that fill Sicily's mountainous landscape. The histories of each of these castles, whether Arab, Greek, Roman, Spanish, or Norman in origin, reveal something unique about Sicily's constantly invaded past. Castello Manfredonico, built during the rule of the Aragonese (Spanish 1282 - 1492), was one of many castles built by Sicily's noble families whose patchwork of baronies and feudal holdings stretched across the island. The head of the family, or "feudal lord," was so powerful that contemporaries often referred to them as "semi-kings," having below them some two hundred lesser, poor, and violent vassals.²

Castles across Sicily (1570 map). Dave Rumsey maps

Castello Manfredonico

One of Sicily's baron families, the Chiaramontes, commanded by the strong feudal lord Manfredi Chiaramonte III, fought against royal authority for control of Sicily during the rule of the Aragonese (Spanish). The Chiaramontes, along with other baron families, decided to divide Sicily into "spheres of influence" with each family asserting rule over his own territory by enacting and upholding their own laws. This method of rule proved ineffective, however, as tensions amongst the ruling families resulted in constant conflict and division. In 1370, Manfredi Chiaramonte III constructed Castello Manfredonico as a defense against the other baron families who also fought for control of the island.³

Considered an example of medieval defensive architecture, Castello Manfredonico's masonry construction was built at various heights to adhere to the rock's inherent structure. A residence as well as a military garrison, castle levels include the chapel, aristocratic apartments, and underground halls with dungeons and torture cells. The underground area, referred to as the "Prison of Death," held the condemned until they were lowered through a passageway door and drowned. The castle columns, embedded into the rock, are adorned with ancanthus leaves, symbolizing immortality and resurrection.

Castello Manfredonico

The castle walkway view.

After the death of Manfredi Chiaramonte III, the castle's ownership transferred to another Chiaramonte family member, Andrea. In an attempt to continue Manfredi's political influence, Andrea held a meeting of Sicily's baron families in the castle's "Sala dei Baroni" or the Barons' Hall. During the meeting, Andrea made an effort to forge a pact with the families to oppose the arrival of the new Aragonese King, Martin the Younger. The pact failed, however, as the other noble families sided with the new king. The Chiaramonte family refuged to pay homage to the new king and in 1392, Andrea Chiaramonte was arrested. He was taken to Palermo where he was executed (beheaded) in the Piazza Marina.

The Barons' Hall where the meeting with Sicily's baron families was held. The ceiling, which fell during the time of abandonment, has been replaced.

Upon the death of Andrea, the possessions of the Chiaramonte family, including the Castello Manfredonico, were passed to Guglielmo Raimondo Moncada. In 1397, Moncada was accused of rebellion against the king and the castle went to the Aragonese family who sold it in 1407. After further changes of ownership, the castle was acquired by Don Cesare Lanza around 1555. Still under the ownership of the Lanza family, the castle became a prison in the seventeenth century before it was totally abandoned. It remained under the ownership of the Lanza family until the 20th century. Castello Manfredonico was partially restored in 1911 and eventually opened to the public.

The Castle Entrances, Stables, and Courtyard

The steep castle walkway leads to two gothic entrances, the first of which takes you to the original horse stables. The second entrance opens up to the castle courtyard where additional gothic archways provide entrances to the Barons' Hall and Chapel. The castle's intimidating, medieval past is enveloping. I wanted to find out more about those who were being held captive or tortured in the castle, but my searches turned up nothing.

The walkway to the first arched entrance of the castle.

A medieval fortress.

The first arched entrance. Historical references indicate that the Chiaramonte coat of arms was once located above this entrance (in the now empty opening).

The original floor of the stables.

The second arched entrance, the "Castle Gateway," with a view of the courtyard. ²

Looking out the second arched entrance from the courtyard. ²

The castle courtyard with the Barons' Hall entrance on the left.

A similar view as the above photo shows where the coat of arms once occupied the empty space above the arched Barons' Hall entrance.

Castle courtyard detail.

Courtyard detail.

Stairs near the courtyard.

The Castle Interior

The Barons' Hall (Sala dei Baroni) takes its name from the Sicilian Barons' pact against King Martin. The hall has a beamed ceiling which suggests it was added at later date compared to other areas of the noble apartment. ² Next to the Barons' Hall, a triangular room leads into a succession of rooms covered with ribbed cross vaults, in which there are additional mullioned windows. There's the fireplace room, the bedroom with its double cross vault, the armory, the death chamber with its insidious trap doors, the room of the three women (not sure which room this is), and the feudal prison. ¹

Lanza family coat of arms on display in Barons' Hall.

The Barons' Hall mullioned windows with a view of the Sicilian countryside.

Looking through the mullioned windows.

Castle walkways.

The magnificent bedroom with its ribbed cross vaults.

Bedroom column detail.

Stone wall detail.

Castle walkway.

The fireplace room.

Castello Manfredonico

Castle Armory and Prison

Castello Manfredonico

The opening where prisoners were dropped and drowned.

The Chapel

The castle's chapel ogival (gothic arch) entrance is similar to the one that leads into the Barons' Hall. The chapel was first dedicated to San Giorgio, the protector of the Chiaramonte family. At one time, it housed the statue of the Madonna della Catena which was placed there in 1521. The rectangular chapel is decorated with two ribbed crosses supported by columns with ancanthus leaves. In the walls of the Chapel there are windows - loopholes that serve more for the passage of light and air than for defense.

The Chapel floor is covered with "carcareddi" slabs. The walls around the altar were frescoed in a Baroque style. The altar, built by Manfredi III and now destroyed, was in the ogival style and the columns of the corners were of an elegant structure. On the right, at the height of the altar, there is a stone cabinet, where, perhaps, the priest, before celebrating, laid down the Chalice or other items. It was in this chapel that prisoners prayed before meeting their fate.

The entrance to the Chapel from the courtyard. A coat of arms was displayed above this entryway as well.